This is the reason I started sewing in the first place... to put patches on my husband's uniforms. Isn't it amazing how things blossom from such a simple inspiration!
Blessings and Peace!!
30 September 2011
Scarf, A Side Pattern - Sept 2011
The whole purpose for this scarf was to use some yarn I found at the church's thrift store. The pastor's wife wanted to have a thrift store for a long time and finally opened it about a year ago. People bring in donations, she sorts through them, prices them, and sells them to people who come in looking for stuff. She has mostly clothing, but also a lot of other stuff, too. I happened to come in at the right time to buy this partial skein, from her, then later a lady donated a big bag of yarn (which I also bought for $5!) and knitting needles... needless to say I have more yarn and knitting needles than I know what to do with! Now if only I could find enough crochet hooks and Tunisian crochet hooks to finish those sets! (I'm still missing a few sizes of knitting needles, but I have soooooo many I don't know what sizes I'm actually missing yet!)
This is a pattern I found in one of my Knitting Made Easy books (I only have two). It's super simple! But since I don't want to copy write the pattern, I'll cite the book!
Knitting Made Easy
Beginner Basics, Illustrated Stitches, Updated Techniques
Featuring Red Heart Yarns - www.redheart.com
Distributed in the USA by Coats and Clark, Greer, SC 29650
Blessings and Peace!
26 September 2011
Bags: An Official Pattern - August 2011
Okay, this project (yes, I know, two bags but one project) was inspired by a conversation I had with a clerk at our local yarn shop. She complimented the bags I brought in for shopping, so I told her about them. Turns out she was one of the manager/owners of the yarn shop and offered to work with me, if I wanted to make sample products with their yarn and write up a pattern they would sell the pattern for me at the yarn shop! NEAT! So... I got busy with making the samples and am now working on the patterns. These are the first drafts, I'm still working with test crocheters. (If you're interested, test the pattern and leave a comment! [note: google accounts are FREE!!!!])
Hook - H (5.00mm)
Weight - Worsted
Gauge - 4x4” ~ 13 st x 8.5 rows
Finished size ~ 19.5” wide x 12” tall
Note 1: This project is worked in the round (starting in Row 3) with connecting at the end of each round.
Note 2: May need to go down a hook size if you crochet loosely.
- CA
Row 1: ch 63
Row 2: dc in fourth chain from hook and each chain after to end. (60 dc).
Row 3: (worked in the round) ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in second st of previous row and each st to end, dc 2 more in first corner (last st of previous row), dc 3 in first st of opposite side, dc in second st of previous row and each st to end, dc 2 more in third corner (last st of previous row), dc 3 in first st of opposite side, sl st to beg of Row 3. (130 dc)
Row 4-8: (do not turn) ch 3, dc in second st from previous row to end, connect with sl st. (130 dc)
- change yarn CB
Row 9-23: ch 3, dc in second st from previous row to end, connect with sl st. (130 dc)
- change yarn CA
Row 24-26: ch 3, dc in second st from previous row to end, connect with sl st. [do NOT cut yarn yet!!] (130 dc)
Handles:
Measure: Flatten bag and measure distance from edge of bag to handle positon (approx 4”), mark distance for the outside of each handle with crochet markers (or safety pins), count 5 st toward the inside of bag and mark inside of handle with crochet markers (or safety pins), should have 8 markers.
Row 1: attach yarn *ch 3, dc in next 4 stitches, turn* repeat for 100 handle rows.
Sew handle on: cut yarn to ~ 4” from hook, straighten (untwist) handle, (may use darning needle or crochet hook) “sew” handle onto bag between markers.
Tie in ends.
Hook - H (5.00mm)
Weight - Worsted
Gauge - 4x4” ~ 16 st x 22 rows (may use other hook size to attain gauge)
Finished size (body) ~ 21” wide x 12” tall
Note 1: This project is worked in the round (starting in Row 3) with connecting at the end of each round.
Note 2: May need to go down a hook size if you crochet loosely.
- CA
Row 1: ch 81
Row 2: turn, sc in second ch from hook and each chain after (80 st)
Row 3: (worked in the round) turn, ch 1, sc in each stitch from previous row to end, sc 3 in last stitch from previous row, sc 3 in first stitch of the opposite side, sc in each stitch from previous row to the end, sc 3 in last stitch from previous row, sc 2 in first stitch of previous row (should be at the beginning of Row 3), connect to beginning of Row 3 with sl st. (170 st)
Row 4-15: (do not turn) ch 2, sc in each st from the row before to end, connect to beginning with sl st. (170 st)
- change yarn CB
Row 16-40: ch 2, sc in each st from row before to end, connect to beginning with sl st. (170 st)
- change yarns CA
Row 41-50: ch 2, sc in each st from row before to end, connect to beginning with sl st. (170 st)
- change yarn CC
Row 51-65: ch 2, sc in each st from row before to end, connect to beginning with sl st. [do NOT cut yarn yet!] (170 st)
Handles:
Measure: Flatten bag and measure distance from edge of bag to handle position (approx 5”), mark distance for the outside of each handle with crochet markers (or safety pins), count 5 st toward the inside of bag and mark inside of handle with crochet markers (or safety pins), should have 8 markers.
Row 1: attach yarn *ch 2, sc in next 5 stitches, turn* repeat for 100 handle rows.
Sew handle on: cut yarn to ~ 4” from hook, straighten (untwist) handle, (may use darning needle or crochet hook) “sew” handle onto bag between markers.
Tie in ends.
Blessings!!
11 September 2011
Little Pink Blanket, Because I Had the Yarn! - August 2011
Soooooo, I wanted to try something new with blankets. I started at one corner, made the middle wide, and ended at the opposite corner. The first picture is about half-way finished. As you can see, though, it didn't exactly come out square. It's more of a diamond shape than a standard blanket, but it's okay, because that's the way this one worked out. Besides, who says all blankets have to be squared (or rectangle)?
The first stitch was a double stitch and expanded it into a three-stitch shell. That is basically the pattern. The second row had 2 shells, the third row had 3 shells, and so forth and so on until it was at its widest point and I started decreasing the rows. I used a simple double stitch and anchor before I started the first shell of each decreasing row. If you look in the last picture, my index finger is at the bottom of a shell and my middle finger is at the side of the same shell so you could see the pattern up close. Each shell (except for the very first one) begins and ends with an anchor from the row before. It's a really neat stitch. I hope that whatever little girl receives this blanket enjoys it!
Notes: A shell stitch starts with a double (or triple) crochet stitch and can be expanded to 3 or 5 stitches. The base of the shell stitch is the first loop made at the base of the first stitch, each subsequent stitch of the shell starts in the same loop. Each of the side shells are anchored at the bottom in the corner of the shell from the row before. In rows 2 through the middle, increasing, there is an anchor at the top of each shell from the row before that makes the corner of the current row and the bottom of the next row. In the middle rows to the end, decreasing, start with a double (or triple) crochet, anchor it at the top of the shell from the previous row, then yarn over (loop the yarn over the crochet hook) once for a double stitch or twice for a triple stitch and anchor at the bottom of the current row like normal.
Love and Blessings!!
06 September 2011
Adventures in Bag Making - September 2011
These were a God-inspired project. That's right, God inspired me to make these for someone else. The church has some new members, new to the Faith and new to the church, and they have some needs, so the church asked for donations of food to help the family, specifically fresh produce foods and other non-canned stuff. That's where God came in. He nudged me into purchasing extra produce when I went to the produce stand and, before I went to the produce stand, He inspired me to make bags for them. These bags are a heavier type of material and therefore more sturdy than those plastic bags you get from the stores. How neat would it be to receive a set of sturdy grocery bags? I really hope this family appreciates and enjoys this gift (as well as all the food and other gifts the church provided!).
First, I cut the material to about the right size for the body and handles for each bag. Below is the folded cut material ready to be worked for two bags (of the same material).
The first thing I did was ironed everything out and got rid of all the creases and wrinkles. then I ironed the handles in half.
I used the center crease from the ironing to measure about 1 to 1 1/2 inches for the handles on both sides of the crease. One bag had 1 inch handles while the others had 1 1/2 inch handles. I ironed down the extra so it would be easier to sew. When I folded the center crease, the ironed under parts came together and lined up so I could sew a seam with the sides tucked in. Then I folded the bag body in half and creased the bottom there, too. I also needed to trim the tops of the bags so they would be even (I don't cut very straight sometimes!).
After that, I straight pinned the edge of the handle to the bag and sewed with the machine to reinforce the handles with the bag. Below is a picture of the handle attached to the bag before I sewed the top seams.
Next, I ironed the tops down inside to make the top seam. Keep in mind I haven't done anything with the sides yet, so there are two sides to iron and sew.
Then I sewed the seam across each of the two top sections.
Once both sides of the top were sewn, I folded the bag in half and held it by its handles, lined up the top corners and sewed from top to bottom for the first part of a French seam.
Then I trimmed the extra material off (about 1/4 inch from the thread, again, sometimes I can't cut very straight in the first place!) for both sides.
Then I turned the bag in-side-out to make the second part of the French seam and sewed from the bottom of the bag to the top of the bag.
Once the French seams were complete on both sides, I boxed the bottoms of the bags by sewing a triangle piece on each corner with the bottom crease of the bag lined up with the side seam.
In-side-out it looks kind of funny, but I promise it works GREAT!!
Turned right-side-out it looks pretty nice!
Also, I made three produce bags for them to use! I made them with the same pattern as the rest of the bags but left off the handles.
Below is the picture of all the bags I made for the family plus one random mat I made for the tea set I inherited from my great-grandparents. There were six grocery bags and 3 produce bags.
I wanted something to break the white in this area, so I figured I'd sew something up right quick while I had my sewing stuff out and ready to go. I made the mat like the lunch and dinner napkins by ironing around the edges to a thin border and sewing the rectangle. Pretty simple.
That's all for this post, folks, I hope you enjoyed and have new inspiration for gifts and useful things at home!
Blessings!!!!
02 September 2011
An Experiment in Clothing... June 2011
All right! Let's follow this logic of experimenting with clothing!!
First of all, this **is** my first article of clothing ever made **with** a pattern!! With that in mind, I believe it came out nicely. This is the New Look pattern 6515 bin 117 size A 8-18. My attempt was variation B with shorter sleeves.
As you can see in the photo below, I managed to cut out all of the pattern pieces (I think!). Sometimes reading the patterns can be quite tricky! Oh what I would have given to have someone with experience there to help me with this one!
Between here, there, and yonder I managed to get it all sewn together... hopefully close to what the pattern showed. Below is the finished product. Looks nice, right?
I made this for the largest size it showed (18 misses) and, as you can see, it still came out snug!! Surely I haven't gained THAT much weight in the last 4 years!! Maybe it's because I sewed it together weird... yeah... we'll go with that....
Overall, I feel accomplished by the completion of this shirt. It is a learning experience for certain! But now I know how to do things a little differently so maybe the next one will FIT!!
Blessings!!
31 July 2011
Oooohhh... That's A Pretty Scarf!! - Tunisian Crochet - July 2011
Okay... you got me! I couldn't wait! I'm so excited about this project, though!!!!! Since it's a new crochet technique I simply couldn't wait to finish it and post!
As a reminder, Tunisian crochet works in tiers and picks up stitches at the vertical bar rather than the top of the stitch (above). I really enjoyed working this particular project because of the tiers.
These two are pictures of the project where (above) I was working the end of the tiers and preparing for the finishing border and (below) I finished the scarf with finishing border. (Yes, it is called "finishing border" in the book! I was totally not being redundant!) I figured these two pictures would give you a good feel for what the project looks like. I was kind of sad when I realized that I switched the directions of the tiers at one point, but oh well, it's finished!! And no one would have known if I hadn't said anything. The thing is there are two sides to Tunisian crochet... one side is considered the "front" and has the vertical bars while the other side, the "back," looks all bunched up and stuff. In the picture above, the green squares are showing their "front" side and the pink squares are showing their "back" side. I did this on purpose because I think both sides look nice. I also like the effect of the front and back sides together. Besides, it's a scarf... there is no true "front" and "back" to a scarf! Is there... ? I didn't think so!
At the end of my little scarf project I had a few leftovers.... I'm wondering what to do with them... I'll figure something out, right? Yay! Thanks for the confidence!
So... I would post the pattern. Instead I will give you the book name and page number and stuff.
Author: Sheryl Thies
Title: Get Hooked on Tunisian Crochet: Learn How With 13 Projects
Copywrite: 2011 - by Sheryl Thies
Publishers: Martingale & Company (registered)
19021 120th Ave. NE, Suite 102
Bothell, WA 98011-9511 USA
www.martingale-pub.com
Printed: in China
Page: 46-49 (with references to other pages of the book)
Skill level: Intermediate
Since I did not use the same type of yarn and size of hooks it turned out to be a slightly different project that what the book gives, but I expected and wanted this for my project. The book pattern is given for a shawl, but I created a scarf. For more information on gaging, sizing, and creating specific projects to size, comment or e-mail me!
Blessings!
P.S. Stay tuned for more yarn projects! I have a crochet blanket (I don't know if I should call it a baby blanket or an afghan at this point), a poncho, and a couple of crochet bags coming up!! Plus who knows what I'll be inspired to sew!!
What's That? - Produce Bags 101 - July 2011
Soooooo... I don't like using paper or plastic bags for anything. It irks me. I don't know about you but I like reusable, washable stuff. With that in mind, here's a great idea I've never heard from anyone else before... you know those little brown paper bags, the ones some people put fresh produce or glass bottles in? How about the plastic ones (those seem more common)? Yeah, THOSE!!!! Here's the green alternative! Take some of those old cloth samples and make mini-bags! (If you scroll down there's actually a picture of what I'm talking about!) It doesn't take much material... in fact, it takes less material to make a min-bag than it does a dinner napkin! Yup, that's right, less than 23 inches.
First, cut the cloth so it makes about the right size. Iron it out, trim it up and then sew around the edges. I like the "fold-it-in-half-so-there-are-only-two-sides-to-sew" method myself. The picture below shows a French seam... however that is not the only possible seam you can make. I tried about 4 (which is the number of mini-bags I made) different ways to sew. Personally, I think the French seam is probably the best for durability. Also, in the picture below, if you look closely there is a tight part... where I sewed across the corner of the bag to make a bottom. Thanks to the inspiration and example from Mrs. Stupfer, this was a no-brainer to add....
As you can see (below) sewing across the corner of the bag on both sides like that (above) actually makes the bag stable and able to stand on its own! Yeah... that bag is NOT laying down! Whadda ya think about that? (I think it's kinda nifty, but that's just me....)
Above you can see a picture of the seam from the outside. It didn't line up completely perfect, but ya know, it still looks good! I can't wait to take these new bags to the market!! Below is a comparison picture between my newly sewn blue produce bag and a little brown paper produce bag. I could have made my little bag taller, but I think it's the perfect size... besides, I rarely ever fill the paper bags more than half way anyway! Do you?
And finally, all four of my bags all ready for the market! Hope this was an inspirational post for you!!
P.S. Keep a look out for the next post... it's about the Tunisian (afghan) crochet!
Blessings!
26 July 2011
Sewing Again! Napkins! - June 2011
First, I cut off the edges so I can use the middle. Second, I measured each side and figured out how many napkins I could make from it. Third, I cut the individual napkin pieces, being sure to allow plenty of room for play and error. Fourth, I folded the napkins into triangles to make perfect squares and trimmed the edges so they were more even. Fifth, I ironed (with water) the edges down so they would stay where I wanted to while I was sewing. Sixth, I sewed around the edges to make a border.
Folding and ironing the edges down made sewing the edges much easier. Above is the first fold and below is the second fold.
I made several napkins, so I ended up taking pictures of the steps out of order... one day I will take pictures in an order that makes sense! Above is the triangle folding of a dinner napkin. The edge I trimmed down is closes to me (at the bottom of the triangle). The other two sides are the same length (for you math types, that is an isosceles triangle!). The reason this method of triangle folding makes a perfect square is because the material is folded in half along the diagonal twice. This way, the triangle is only one-fourth the size of the square and only one edge of the triangle needs to be trimmed in order to trim all edges of the square.
Finally, the finished pile of napkins! I am so excited to have these! Now all I need is to make some more napkins with some of the other material I have laying around. First, though, I need to make more grocery bags....
Enjoy and Blessings!!
22 July 2011
How To Make An Afghan...? Tunisian Crochet!! - July 2011
Okay, so I was introduced to a new (to me) and different type of crochet the other day: Tunisian Crochet (also known as Afghan Crochet). It is super simple, just different. I took a few pictures to show the basics differences between Tunisian Crochet and traditional crochet (what I'm used to).
First, we have the Tunisian Crochet hook. A little bit different from the standard crochet hook, this type of hook (shown above) is long enough to make a shawl straight across. There are different types of Tunisian Crochet hooks in all the difference sizes as according to what we're used to seeing (or at least I am used to seeing). The type of Tunisian Crochet hook I thought was most interesting is one that has a detachable extension so the project can be made as wide as desired on a single row.
One of the notable things about Tunisian Crochet is the fact that the last part of each stitch stays on the crochet hook. That's why the needles need to be so long! Shown (directly above) is the basic Tunisian Crochet stitch on a size "g" hook. It is the equivalent of a single crochet stitch. Start with one loop on the crochet hook, insert hook into vertical bar of a stitch from the previous row (or stitch from chain row), yarn over, pull through (like normal), yarn over, pull through one loop (one stitch), then repeat for desired number of stitches (loops). Then at the end of the row yarn over, pull through one, yarn over, pull through two, yarn over pull through two (repeating until only one loop remains on the crochet hook).
So! That's the basic differences between traditional crochet as I know it and Tunisian Crochet. Look forward to the next posting!
Blessings!!
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